Goods Shed Part Two

What a difference some corrugated iron cladding makes to a model building! After explaining how I painted the laser-cut timber kit in part one of my building a goods shed series, gluing the corrugated iron to the sides of my Model Train Buildings G-2 Goods Shed took a matter of only minutes.

Some fast drying PVA wood glue was all I needed to glue the pre-painted sides to my goods shed.

I used some fast drying PVA water based Tacky Glue made by Boyle that I bought from my local Bunnings store to fix the painted corrugated sides to the inner-core of the building. Compared to normal PVA wood glue, it still leaves enough time to slide each panel into the correct position, but sets a lot quicker, which means less time clamping the kit with your hands until it has bonded.

I used the same Tacky Glue to fix the clear acrylic window panes to the sills and crossbar panels.

The Tacky Glue dries clear enough to use with the acrylic glass panes that come with the Model Train Buildings kit, which proved to be a blessing as I couldn't figure out how to glue the crossbar panels to the sills. There was an 'inth of a millimeter play between the white panels and the painted window sill that had me beat. So I just glued the white crossbar panels directly onto the clear window panes, and the window panes into the sills. As you can see, the Tacky Glue dried without leaving any clouding behind on the clear acrylic.

I used an old paint brush to paint the Tacky Glue around the holes where the window sills fit to avoid any spills.

I next became stuck trying to figure out how to position the window sills into place in the cut-out openings. Despite each piece fitting perfectly when I tested it before painting, I'd applied about 8 coats of Burnt Sienna to the door frames and window sills which meant that they were now too thick to be fitted from the inside of the model. The windows sat too far back in the opening, making the windows appear recessed and robbing the model of all the detail I had put into each window pane. My solution was to fit them from the front of the model, meaning my goods shed's windows now sit out a millimetre or two from the face of the building like bug's eyes. Yet somehow it gives the model a bit more character than if they had been fitted flush with the side of the building, and I'm kinda pleased with the end result.

It seemed a shame to cover up all that detail on the goods shed platform, so I positioned the doors to be fixed open.

With the windows glued into place and the door frames ready for the doors to be fixed into position, I placed the building onto my goods shed platform and stood back to see how it was progressing. Only I felt gutted that once the roof was fitted to the goods shed it was going to cover up all that beautiful detail I had put into the timber decking.

Gluing the doors into an semi-open position provides a cool viewing angle.

No problem I thought. I'd just glue the doors in a slightly opened position so as to allow viewers a peek inside. With the awning on the non-rail side of the goods shed needing to be cut back so as to clear the perspex screen that will slide into position on the front of my layout, the open doorway is positioned in a prime viewing area. All I need to do is paint the interior walls of the building that will be visible through the part-opened doorway, fix a light into position, and viola! I'll have given my goods shed another level of interest. But as usual, that's a story for another day.

See also; Goods Shed Part Three or Goods Shed Part One and Building a Goods Platform